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Filtering by Tag: tomato sauce

classic lasagna with mushrooms

Andrea

I really like cookbooks. Sit me down on the couch with a glass of wine, sticky notes, and a thick book full of beautiful and evocative culinary images and I am one happy girl. Dissecting recipes can entertain me for hours, methods and timing dancing through my head as I imagine this ingredient melded with that one. But it is a very special book that holds my attention for the space between recipes, where the author's true voice emerges in the stories behind the dishes compiled. When my stepfather, Joe, handed me his copy of The Italian Country Table by Lynne Rossetto Kasper and said "You can borrow it, but only for a little while. And you MUST read the chapter about tomatoes." I had a feeling it would be just that kind of book. I immediately curled up in the corner of my parents' L-shaped couch and sank into that tomato chapter, which begins like this:

"I must begin this chapter with a confession: There is nothing, absolutely nothing that pleasures me more than a bowl of pasta and tomato sauce. When I want to reach out with all my love to my husband, a dish of pasta and tomatoes is almost always in my hands. When I am worn out and the world isn't such a nice place to be in, I make tomato sauce and pasta. When time is short but dear friends must be fed with joy and not pressure, I make pasta with tomato sauce. Never are any two of these pastas alike, because for me, this is the food of instinct." 

Lynn Rossetto Kasper, The Italian Country Table

And...I was hooked. My own copy arrived back home in Virginia the very next week and I immediately began plotting an "Italian Month" on Bella Eats. It didn't happen because, well, life got busy, but we've cooked and loved several of the recipes and I've very much enjoyed getting lost in the spaces between them. 

I made this lasagna last month for very good friends we hadn't seen in many weeks and I must say, it was the perfect dish for a mini-reunion. Simple ingredients create a complex marriage of flavors and textures that you just can't stop eating. We sat around our table for hours catching up, the pan of lasagna between us enticing each of us to a second serving.

The pasta, cheese, and canned tomatoes were purchased at our local pasta shop, Mona Lisa Pasta. It shouldn't be a problem for you to find them in most grocery stores, but do seek out the highest quality cheeses and tomatoes you can.  The simplicity of this lasagna allows their flavors to shine. I did a little happy dance when those sheets of fresh pasta were brought out to me in the shop, soft and supple and brushed with semolina. I'd been contemplating making my own, but with limited time was pleased to have this option. If you can, use fresh pasta, but if not dried will do as well.

Also, the sauce is delicious. It is worth keeping a can of san marzano tomatoes in your pantry for an emergency batch of fresh sauce whenever it may be needed.

I followed the recipe in The Italian County Table almost exactly, adding only the mushrooms.

Home-Style Lasagna with Mushrooms (optional)

from The Italian Country Table

serves 8-12

Tomato Sauce Ingredients

  • 3 tightly packed tablespoons each fresh basil and Italian parsley leaves
  • 1tsp fresh oregano leaves
  • 2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
  • 2 tbsp fruity extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 large cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 pint basket (3/4 pound) flavorful cherry tomatoes, halved
  • 1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes
  • 1/2 cup water
  • pinch of sugar
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/8 tsp hot red pepper flakes

Lasagna Ingredients

  • 1 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese
  • 1-3/4 to 2 pounds high-quality, creamy ricotta cheese
  • 1/2 pound fresh mozzarella cheese, shredded
  • 8 scallions, trimmed of root ends
  • 2 tightly packed tbsp fresh basil leaves
  • 1 tightly packed tbsp fresh Italian parsley leaves
  • 1 tsp fresh oregano leaves
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 medium large onion, cut vertically into strips about 1/4 inch wide
  • 1/2 pound cremini mushrooms, cleaned and sliced (optional)
  • extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 pound dried lasagna pasta (or, homemade pasta. or, if you're very lucky, fresh pasta from your local pasta shop.)

Method

  1. Prepare the tomato sauce by mincing together the herbs and chopped onions.  Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat.  Saute the onions and herbs to golden brown.  Add the garlic and cook a few seconds, then stir in the cherry tomatoes and the canned ones with their juices, crushing them with your hands as they go into the pan.  Boil, uncovered, over high heat until thick, stirring often.  Add the water and cook a few moments more.  Stir in the sugar and season with salt and black pepper and red pepper flakes to taste. Cool briefly, then pass the sauce through a food mill or puree in a processor or blander.  Cover and set aside.
  2. Holding pack 2 tbsp of the parmesan, blend the cheese in a bowl.  Mince together the scallions, basil, parsley, oregano, and garlic.  Stir into the cheeses, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper.
  3. Toss the onion strips and mushrooms with a little olive oil, salt, and pepper.  Heat a saute pan over high and saute until the onion is starting to brown and the mushrooms have released their liquid. Turn out of the pan.
  4. If you're using dried pasta, cook in fiercely boiling water, stirring often, until barely al dente (it should be underdone). Drain in a colander and hold in a bowl of cold water.  Fresh pasta does not need to be cooked.
  5. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a shallow 2-1/2-quart baking dish. Drain the pasta and pat dry. Moisten the bottom of the dish with sauce. Cover with a single layer of pasta. Daub with one quarter of the cheese mixture and one quarter of the browned onions + mushrooms. Moisten with one sixth of the remaining sauce. Top with a layer of pasta and continue layering, topping the fifth layer of pasta with the remaining sauce. Cover lightly with foil.
  6. Bake for 40 minutes, or until heated through. Sprinkle with the reserved 2 tbsp parmesan. Let rest 10 minutes in the turned-off oven with its door open, then serve.

 

worth the effort

Andrea

I have a confession to make. I’ve been keeping this utterly delicious dish from you for, oh, 2 months or so. What happened you ask? Bella Eats Pie Month, that’s what. Just as I was about to share this recipe for fresh, egg-laden pasta tossed with a homemade tomato sauce and spicy chunks of Italian sausage, I had this crazy idea to bake a different kind of pie each week for 5 weeks. And then, I needed a break. So I apologize, dear readers, for the delay, knowing full well that I’ve kept you from enjoying this warm and comforting meal as Winter starts elbowing its way into the last half of Autumn. pappardelle merge 1 Last week we had an especially dreary few days with rain and winds sweeping through Charlottesville, dropping our temperatures into the 30’s and 40’s. It was the kind of weather that had me wearing my scarf while sitting behind my computer at the office, drinking hot tea every hour while thinking about thick stews and hearty casseroles.  This dish popped into my head several times, the memory of silky pasta laced with tomato sauce prepared and frozen at the peak of summer causing my mouth to salivate and my belly to warm. pappardelle-4 It is the hearty, homey, comfortable meals that I crave when the air temperature transitions from brisk to downright cold.  Unlike the summer months, when we'd rather be lazily sipping vino verde on the back deck while munching on a quickly assembled salad, Brian and I spend a significant portion of Winter in our kitchen, not minding the extra heat the stovetop produces in order to simmer a pot of soup for hours or the labor required to roll out thin sheets of freshly made pasta for a pan of bubbly lasagna.  With chilled darkness falling well before we leave the office, our kitchen is a welcome source of warmth waiting for us at the end of each day, providing a space for us to pour energy into meals that will warm our bodies from the inside out. pappardelle merge 2 pappardelle merge 3 Fresh pasta is one of those luxurious-sounding meals that seems as if it should be impossible to make at home, in the amount of time allotted for dinner preparation in busy lives.  It is, in fact, quite the opposite.  Requiring only 30 minutes of rest in the refrigerator before being passed through a pasta machine, the dough can be made in a mere 10 minutes' time.  Your sauce can be simmering with whatever additions you've chosen to enhance it with as you turn the crank and catch the golden sheets of floured dough, fold them carefully and cut them into your desired shapes.  After a quick dunk in a pot full of boiling water you are ready to garnish the silky strands with whatever mixture has been simmering on your stove, filling the air with the pungent aroma of tomatoes, garlic and herbs, or perhaps the sweet smell of browned butter and sage. pappardelle-10 I assure you that, although fresh pasta requires more time and attention than opening a box of dried linguine to dump into boiling water, it is completely, totally, undeniably worth the effort.  We'll be making it often these next few months, so I'll be referring back to this recipe in future posts, I'm sure. It can be used for any shape of pasta desired.

Fresh Pasta

from The Naked Chef Takes Off, by Jamie Oliver, pg. 98 Ingredients
  • 1-2/3 cups bread flour
  • 1-2/3 cups semolina flour (if unavailable, bread flour will do)
  • 3 large eggs
  • 8 egg yolks
Because this recipe is so egg-y, I recommend using eggs as high in quality as you can find.  Ours came from Double H Farm outside of Charlottesville. Method
  1. Place both flours on a clean work surface.  Make a well in the center of the flours and add the eggs and egg yolks.  Break up the eggs with a fork and slowly bring the flour into the well, incorporating the flour and the eggs until a dough starts to form.  [I am AWFUL at this part, and always get egg all over my counter.  Jamie says you can make the dough with an electric mixer or food processor, which I will try next time].  Knead with your hands until a smooth, silky and elastic dough forms. ** Wrap the ball of dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
  2. Remove your dough from the fridge and divide into 4 pieces, putting three of the four back in the fridge.  Flatten the smaller dough ball into a disk and dust with flour on both sides.  If you have a pasta machine (they are only about $40, I have one made by Atlas) run the dough through on the widest setting possible.  (you can also roll out by hand with a rolling pin, but I've never tried it.)  Fold the dough in half and run through the machine again, repeating this process several times on the widest setting to get an evenly textured sheet.  Flour each side of the dough.  Step your machine down to the next smallest setting and run the dough through.  Repeat, flouring the dough each time you step down the setting on your machine until you get the pasta to 1-2 mm thick (#6 on my machine...).
  3. Cut pasta into desired shapes.
**NOTE:  The dough will be very wet at first, when all of the flour is incorporated with the egg.  Start to knead, coating your hands with flour every minute or so to prevent the dough sticking too terribly.  if after several minutes the dough is still very wet, add flour, 1/4 cup at a time, kneading well after each addition until the dough achieves a smooth, elastic consistency.  It should take about 10 minutes of solid kneading, total. pappardelle-11

Pappardelle with Spicy Sausage Ragù

serves 4 Ingredients
  • one batch of Fresh Pasta (recipe above)
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1/2 large onion, diced
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 red bell pepper, diced
  • 1 pound spicy Italian sausage, removed from cases and cut into bite-size pieces (ours is fro Double H Farm, outside of Charlottesville)
  • 3 cups of homemade tomato sauce (recipe below) or your favorite jarred sauce
  • parmesan for shaving over top
Method
  1. Cut your sheets of pasta to 12" lengths.  Dust with flour on both sides and fold in half.  Cut into thirds, so that you wind up with strips of pasta about 12" long by 1-1/2" wide.  Set aside.
  2. Heat olive oil over medium heat in nonstick skillet.  Add sausage and brown for 2-3 minutes.  Add onions, garlic and red bell pepper.  Saute' for 8-10 minutes, until onions are translucent and sausage is cooked through.
  3. Add tomato sauce to pan and heat through.  While sauce heats, boil pasta until al dente, 5-6 minutes.  Drain.
  4. Serve pasta with a heap of ragù and shaved parmesan on top.
tomatoes-1

Homemade Tomato Sauce

I realize that tomatoes are out of season nearly everywhere at this time, and that most of us are left with pink, grainy globes that only resemble Summer's favorite fruit.  This sauce can also be made with high-quality, canned, whole tomatoes. Also, this recipe is approximate.  No tomato sauce is ever exactly the same and should always be tweaked according to your tastes. Ingredients
  • 3 pounds fresh tomatoes, peeled, or (2) 28-ounce cans peeled, whole tomatoes
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 4-5 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 medium yellow onion, diced
  • 3-4 tbsp fresh herbs (thyme, oregano, basil or any combination) or 1-2 tbsp dried
  • salt and pepper, to taste
Method
  1. After peeling the tomatoes, crush them with your hands into a large bowl, reserving the juices and seeds with the crushed tomatoes.
  2. In a medium-sized saucepan (3 quarts) heat the olive oil over medium heat.  Add the garlic and onion and cook until tender and translucent.  Add the herbs and cook mixture for an additional 3-4 minutes.
  3. Add the tomatoes and juice and bring to a boil, stirring often.  Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 30-60 minutes, until the desired thickness is achieved.
  4. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
The sauce will keep up to 1 week in the refrigerator, or up to 6 months in a tightly sealed container in the freezer.
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